surfs up, 1969

I dug into my closet and found the set of photos that my Honolulu pals mailed to me just after we left the islands. Jeff had borrowed a fancy Nikonos diving camera and shot a roll on one of my last days out in the offshore break, one sunny day in 1969. The Nikonos had a single wide angle lens, suited for scuba use, so most of the shots appear way off in the distance. But one photo was closer than most, and I requested a custom enlargement seen above. Thats me, carving a nice 5′ section, with Koko head in the background. More photos, including a couple of me posing with my longboard, in the brief slideshow below, from this flickr photoset.:

5 thoughts on “surfs up, 1969”

  1. After I received the set of prints in 1969, I photographically copied them and spent hours in my darkroom trying to enhance them and make B&W enlargements. Some of those prints are still in my collection. On one print I tried to sharpen it up with manual pencil and ink retouching.

    But the other night, I scanned the color prints into my computer, and with just a couple of clicks of a mouse I was able to make incredible color restoration, as well as instant enlargements and cropping. They probably look better now then when they came from the drugstore in 1969. I could even remove the rusty thumbtack holes if I chose to, but I thought to keep them, and the yellowed print borders, to enhance their vintage look.


  2. Oh my! Were you ever that young! What great memories! And the line we will always remember as you dried off and put the board away—“It was SO tough out there!”
    Grandpa Reed


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